When Building The Coosa Frame
Phoenix’s authentic hatches had been intact once we purchased her. The hatches that did include Phoenix didn’t fit properly, because the earlier owner resized each hatch opening when he started re-decking the boat. Our different hatches are fabricated from camera or teak with Lexan and were constructed to let gentle into the cabins.
The lazarette, on the opposite hand, is a storage area on the aft deck that doesn’t want Lexan. With Phoenix’s canoe stern, the aft deck is slender, so we needed to take advantage of the real estate and have a robust hatch that might be walked on, so a nonskid surface was a should.
We had some 1/2 “high-density urethane (HDU) boards left over from our windshield coating rebuild, and a few scraps 1/2” Coosa Bluewater board as nicely. As we talked about in the windshield coating publish, HDU is a strong, naturally waterproof material that is much lighter than wood, thermally stable, paintable, and will be machined very similar to wood.
It is available in quite a lot of thicknesses, and it works properly with fiberglass and epoxy. Coosa is HDU material reinforced with layers of fiberglass. It has the entire properties that we love about working with HDU, together with the energy and structural properties of fiberglass. It comes in two varieties: Nautical (bolstered with steady strand fiberglass) and Bluewater (bolstered with layers of both continuous strand and woven roving fiberglass).
Our lazarette hatch is a trapezoid with the largest edge forward near the aft cabin. When building the Coosa body, we opted to make the front edge taller than the trailing aft edge in order that water would drain down the hatch slightly than pool anyplace on top. We glued the edges together with Precision Board’s HDU Adhesives and used screws to carry the pieces together while the urethane adhesive arrange.
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We may additionally install a cowl vent within the port to permit airflow into the lazarette when working the generator. We measured for placement to align the emergency tiller with the rudder put up, and used a gap saw to cut the appropriately sized gap. Next, we used epoxy mixed with microballoons to fair the hatch smooth in and out, sanding with an orbital sander between coats.
After we had been happy with the fairing, it was time for primer and gloss coats of paint. Your entire hatch was primed inside and out, and we concentrated on the finish gloss paint on the edges, around the entry port, and inside of the hatch. After permitting the gloss paint to cure for a number of days, we taped off the principle top portion of the hatch, flippantly scuffed the paint, and utilized the white Kiwigrip nonskid paint. We’ve been very happy with our Kiwigrip nonskid on Phoenix and have used it both on the decks and in our nesting dinghy.
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